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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.