Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Compared to the Nineties.

A chance encounter while riding the tube in 1988 altered the trajectory of a teenage Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the capital's electric 1990s creative scene, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of the publication i-D.

"That time was the zenith of the Britart scene – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be close. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness."

If Enninful sounds sentimental, he is in good company. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. But over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a significant change. "I believe, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s everywhere."

Shifting Attitudes

This shift is increasingly evident: the rise of populist movements, the pushback against social awareness, and the reinforcement of narrow beauty standards. Where once there was the hope of the previous decade, today a different political force appears as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an badge of national pride, has become contentious again.

According to Enninful, the response has always been to promote culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the guiding principle behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, including a diverse array of influential figures from literature.

"Individuals with a platform should employ it," he comments, referring to those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain was not a welcoming country, if it hadn't given my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I cherished. I believe this phase will fade."

Hope in the Next Generation

He finds hope in the next generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They discuss unconscious bias – I had no concept what that was."

His formative years would forge a pioneering career characterised by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful made history as the first male, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His leadership featured landmark covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and individuals from varied communities. Critically, sales rose.

"To overlook vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re not being inclusive – it’s commercially unwise," he explains.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has recently launched his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since departing his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "change-maker".

"I’ve always questioned the established norms. I was born and raised in a place where the majority was Black – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we came to England, penniless, and I was a minority. I was very shy. My teachers said I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … all that gave me a unique perspective on the inside and the outside."

Defying the caricature of industry figures as loud and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and exudes calm. His journey has not been immune to hardship, including well-documented periods of mental health and addiction.

He has also undergone significant health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to impaired eyesight. "I was in such a dark place for two years, not working, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s like PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever is over, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to fit into a box has propelled him outside the world that built his career. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a group of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's creative cross-pollination – and give platform to those who weren't given adequate attention at the time.

"The establishment sometimes neglected to promote the right artists because they did not have the traditional credentials," he observes.

This venture itself functions with a unique approach, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "The question is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is a piece within a larger creative platform."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His path, he states, is a proof to the power of following your instincts.

How would the younger Edward make of the man he has become? He chuckles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be proud. In those days I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He adds. "Nothing is assumed. We lost our home, we fled our country. I came close to losing my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have counted me out my whole career. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve made up my mind to do something."